An Armenian cemetery, Gyumri

Near the epicentre of a devastating earthquake in 1988 Gyumri is a town that at first glance appears to have recovered fairly well: most buildings have been rebuilt, very few are still abandoned and some display minor damage, which if you didn’t know the history you  could have put down to neglect. The graveyard, however told a different story. With a profusion of stones, monuments and graves packed tightly together, in what was hardly a small area, it obliged visitors…

Continue reading

Nagorno Karabakh: the land that doesn’t exıst

In the unlikely event you don’t share my passionate interest in small wars, in forgotten corners of the world, your response to the name Nagorno Karabakh may well be, “where”?  So let me fill you in.  Back in 1998 in the heady days of the downfall of the USSR the mostly Armenian population of this neighbouring region of Azerbaijan reopened their long simmering claim for independence, which kicked off with peaceful protests in the capital Stepanakert.  As you can imagine…

Continue reading